2010年3月29日星期一

Bespoke Suit Tailor's View on Red Clothes

On a frosty December morning in the office, Despite the fact that I was wearing about five or six items that could be labelled as ‘seasonal’ – including a sensible scarf and a warm hat - it was somehow predictable that my colleagues eyes should be drawn to my Santa-red trousers that poked out from the hem of my checked overcoat. Further comments about St Nicholas, grimly expected and consequently lacking in any hilarity, ensued with the more polite of the dissenters explaining in a painfully sympathetic way that my trousers were ‘rather bright.’

I turned a corner and suddenly the condemnation ceased; “I love your trousers!” shrilled someone excitedly, another walked past grinning “They’re so fun. I wish I could wear something like that.” The wheels in the head whirred, thoughts and ideas fizzed around my little grey cells as I realised, encouraging a knowing smile to my lips, that this was another clear case of sartorial love/hate.

Whereas others might question why one should hate before one questions why one should love, I will tackle the latter first. For I am a proud wearer of bright red trousers; not one of those who wears a more discreet shade of burgundy to avoid stares. And though proud, I am not one who has searched for a reason or an excuse for the attire; my red shod legs are an act of folly. And so, I pose myself the question now; why love?

Firstly, it is clear that I, and many others, adore the colour red. Strongly associated with fire and energy, red is a colour of emotion and passion. And whereas a bright red suit is somewhat comical, a red pair of trousers thrown into a conservative ensemble adds an acceptable amount of ‘spice.’ Red trousers are jolly and mischievous, like the grin of a co-responding bounder as he hops into his motor car. They are also eye-catching and add a little tasteful circus eccentricity to a gentleman, particularly in a sea of navy and grey.

The unfortunate thing about the ‘jolly’ aspect of red trousers is that many people, true to their 20th century upbringing, associate the richer red with Santa Claus – and virtually nothing else. A red scarf is a ‘Santa scarf.’ A red jumper is a ‘Santa jumper.’ And, perhaps the most virulent example of all, red trousers are sniggered at as ‘Santa trousers.’ Coca-Cola must be laughing their heads off because the crimson incarnation of St Nicholas is almost entirely their doing. The saddest thing about this association is that Santa, splendid chap that he is, is scarcely the best model on the circuit.

It also seems to be true that many of the ‘haters’ of red trousers hate them for the same reason I adore them; they are daring and it requires courage to wear them.

I have rarely seen them worn incorrectly; most gentlemen of sufficient sartorial bravery have long since educated themselves in the ways of a well-cut trouser. They look wonderful with brown and tan shoes, blue blazers and also tweed jackets. Sky blue, white, navy and mid-grey are magnificent partner colours.

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Bespoke Suit Tailor Will Tell You What Perfect Shorts Are

Any chap who has manned-up and bought underwear for his girlfriend understands all too well the myriad of pitfalls that lay in wait. For example, when asked “what cup size sir?” the reply “roughly a handful” won’t get you far.

Underwear stands testament to the unquantifiable differences between the two sexes. The boxer short, by comparison, is reassuringly straightforward and simple, just like us men. That is until you delve a little deeper.

Historically boxer shorts were part and parcel of a shirt maker’s art. The reason is simple. Having made his shirts he might find himself with left over pieces of cloth, ideally sized to be made into boxers. For this reason all proper boxer shorts are made from shirting cotton, which also makes them more robust than standard high street offerings.

Material aside, there are differences in construction. Key is the panel seat, an extra piece of cloth sewn into the seat from waist band to crotch. This stops the shorts riding up; allows for extra material cross the seat without providing baggy leg holes, which in turn provides greater support. The other consideration is a tunnel waistband. Here the elastic is enclosed by cotton, which is all that touches the skin.

Men’s underwear may seem an unlikely avenue of exploration for a married woman with a young son.

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Bespoke Suit Tailor's Advice on Suit

I’m going to have a suit made soon. Naturally I’m considering what I’d like to have. Not suffering the burden of excessive wealth this is a rare happening, so some care must be taken with the selection of style and cloth. Now, there are two schools of thought on this issue. These can be defined as my school, and everybody else’s.

Everybody else, probably wisely, argue that if you’re going to invest in bespoke or made to measure tailoring then get the basics sorted first. Those keystones of your wardrobe, the blue and the grey suit in classic styles, are by far the most versatile options, and you can always build in more interesting elements later. Sound fatherly advice.

My theory goes something like this; working one to one with a tailor opens up a world of possibility that the high street just can’t match. Why not have something a bit special, a bit different, something you’ve always wanted but which the high street isn’t offering. Keystone suits will be worn regularly and wear out, unless supplemented with high street offerings. In which case what’s the point?

The single breasted peak lapel suit with a double breasted waistcoat. The fact that I couldn’t find an exact picture of what I want is the reason I’m considering getting one made. The lovely sharp lines and series of V’s, one to be done in a navy worsted cloth.

A large box check, ever so slightly reminiscent of Victorian dandies. Popular with the Duke of Windsor, here in the UK it went through a bit of a revival 10 years ago. An ideal candidate for revival.

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Bespoke Suit Length

I had my first bespoke suit, so, my tastes have evolved through a process of trial and error, making it very clear what suits me and what does not. I found an old Moleskin diary the other day and there, sandwiched between a retrospectively embarassing, studenty attempt at a poem and a rather short and unimaginative list of possible careers upon graduation, I found an interesting entry.


It was an bullet-point list of all the features I wanted in my very first bespoke suit, excitedly written in advance of meeting my tailor for the first time. Many of those features – waisted jacket, charcoal grey fabric, working buttons etc. – have not changed; but a couple have and each has a dramatic effect on the overall appearance of the suit. One such example is the length of the jacket – an area that is utterly crucial to get right and doubly so for those noticably above or below average height.


Short jackets are very much in vogue with many of the menswear designer labels at the moment and have been for the last two to three years. Thom Browne is perhaps the most famous proponent of this ‘shrunken jacket’ look but, even on the highstreet, most jackets are cut short. The idea is that it makes you look taller: the jacket finishes higher on the trouser, leaving more leg showing which gives the illusion of lank. This probably works – to a degree: an overlong jacket will certainly render its wearer shorter to the average eye. The other idea behind this look is that it gives the jacket a casual air.


Yet, when I tried on my original bespoke jacket, after re-reading my diary entry, even the opiod cloud of nostalgia was not enough to blind me to the fact that my jacket – although not without merit – was probably not something I’d want to wear today. You see, the trade-off with a short jacket is that, by shortening, you invariably make the jacket boxier as a result of its being shorter in length whilst the shoulders remain the same width as they would on a regular-length jacket. This is not a flattering aesthetic and – especially if you go very short as Thom Browne has above – is one which can imbue the jacket with the slightly clownlike quality of an awkward schoolchild wearing clothes they’ve outgrown – not the look most of us desire.


The oft-written rule-of-thumb vis-à-vis jacket length is that, with your arms hanging loosely by your sides, your fingers should curl up naturally around the bottom of your jacket. Of course this is just a rough guide and the best solution will vary from person to person. The one inviolable rule – which is, of course, violated oh-so often and with eye-catchingly vulgar panache – is that the vents on the back of the jacket should completely cover your posterior. I think that’s a must.
The suit looks just the right length to my humbly observing eyes: the broad shoulders are counterbalanced by a medium-long jacket whose length permits the tailor to give the item more shape and definition without ruining the trouser-jacket proportion.


It is simply a matter of taste: but I find myself having most definitely changed camps on this and consider it very unlikely that I’ll ever start asking for short jackets again. Indeed, I often see men at work whose jackets are clearly bespoke and think to myself that they’ve ruined what is otherwise a very fine jacket by having had it cut two inches too short!


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Custom-made Suit in Denim

I can't believe that the garment in a gentleman’s wardrobe that reveals the most about his style progress is the ubiquitous denim jean. As a teen youth, he may have worn them wild and ripped; covered in beer spilled from plastic cups at one of the many gigs he attended. As a young early-twenty-something, he may have ‘upgraded’ to the bootcut style, with the carelessly frayed bottoms, to be worn with his overcoat when at university. He may have discarded the unkempt look entirely by his mid twenties and realised that dishevelled denim was for poor students and protestors and was not the sort of thing a trainee accountant should be wearing as he advances towards the psychologically important age of thirty years of age. His weekend look might be something like a straight-leg, dark denim, ever so slightly washed, worn high, just kissing the tassels of his oxblood loafers.


I once looked through the ghastly graveyard of my denim collection and was shocked by the number and style of the purged; it’s humbling how following fashion so closely can result in such a quantity of uselessness. Like that moment experienced by most young people when they think over folly, realising that their parents had been right all along.


Beyond the straight-leg dark denim of our hypothetical trainee accountant, it is considered that there is no denim of appropriate elegance for our gentleman of style. The ferociously anti-denim forum writers and followers of dandy purism often refuse to acknowledge denim as clothing; indeed there may be many readers of these columns who deem jeans to be beneath a gentleman’s consideration. There is something compelling in their argument that simply because a garment happens to be popular, it does not mean that a man of singular and self-determined style need be troubled with it. However, I find it difficult to reject denim entirely. And it has nothing to do with denim’s dominance in the market of casual clothing.


It has a work-a-day quality that contrasts with the finesse of tailoring, which I like. It is hard wearing and, though its comfort is overrated, in denim you do not feel particularly precious in the midst of some of the more sartorially unfriendly activities of modern life. Linen is comparable to it in this respect.


The problem for a gentleman who is cultivating a wardrobe of waistcoats, blazers, bow ties and smart shoes is finding the right denim to complement such elegance. It seems to me there are two routes to take; the gentleman in question could approach the denim question in search of an exaggerated contrast or, he could opt for a denim of classic camouflage.


I use both approaches. Sometimes I will wear a pair of washed skinny jeans with some loafers, an odd jacket and a shirt and tie – I like the aesthetic contrast between the materials; my lower half is exaggeratedly contemporary whereas my upper half is arguably inter-war. On other occasions, I will slip on a pair of straight leg dark and unwashed (non-raw) jeans that masquerade as blue trousers. This look forms a more classic silhouette that is recommended for lovers of the classical. The reason why this look works is because of the way denim works as a fabric; a slight bunching or creasing around the knees is not unwanted or unattractive, whereas on a pair of cotton or wool trousers it would be. Trousers are required to be crisply pressed whereas denim looks far better when it is un-ironed. It is for this reason that denim is such an excellent lifestyle material.


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2010年3月25日星期四

Bespoke Suits Tailor's Tips on Being Cool in Summer (5)

VIII. Shorts and Swim Trunks

By Body Style:

Buy your true waist size. Most men look best in swim trunks that are mid thigh to just above the knee, and not tight.

The Shorts Effect -- Shorts provide a horizontal line at the knee that can make you look shorter. Great for tall guys, but short men should be aware of this effect.

Tall guys would do well in longer boxer style shorts or swim trunks.

Shorter men look best in shorts or swim trunks with shorter legs.

Thin men should steer clear of shorts or swim trunks with very short or very wide legs.

If you are heavy around the middle, you can de-emphasize your stomach by choosing shorts or swim trunks with a flat front and short band of elastic or better, no elastic. If you’re really heavy, you might try wearing a short sleeve shirt open with your swimsuit to balance the look.

To reduce the Shorts Effect shorter gentlemen can wear shorts that are solid or have vertical patterns (corduroy’s rib counts as a vertical pattern). Only tall men can go for the plaids!

The width of leg style on shorts you chose will depend on your leg size. Guys with thin legs should wear a tapered design while heavy legs will look better in wider styles. The shorts leg should not be tight.

By Activity:

Swim trunks are appropriate at the beach or by the pool, only.

The shorter the short the more appropriate it is for casual events or sports rather than dressier social occasions.

Bermuda shorts which come to just above the knee can actually be dressy (even worn with a sport jacket). Some tuxedos, mainly in the Southern part of the U.S. come with "formal" shorts.
Bermudas are not a good length on shorter men, who may want to consider the Jamaica short which is 2 to 3 inches higher.

For more information about bespoke suits, please come to TailorU's website.

Bespoke Suit Tailor's Tips on Being Cool in Summer (4)

VII. Shoes and socks (or not)

Tradition allows for lighter shoes and sandals for summer wear, and white bucks, de rigueur with seersucker. The only white shoes you would ever wear, right? Well maybe golf, and spectator or correspondent shoes, but never a white belt!

Sandals are OK, for social events, but flip-flops are only for the beach. Just be aware of what your shoes are saying about you! Fisherman sandals say, “I’ve been to Europe” and Birkenstocks say, “I’m a sensitive guy who recycles”.

Going without socks is a summer look, but probably doesn’t keep you cooler since perspiration stays on your foot and is not wicked away by the sock. Moisture can ruin leather. There are 125,000 sweat glands in your feet that can leave a quarter cup of moisture in your shoes every day!

Sweat is the biggest problem with sandals since you never wear socks with sandals, unless you are in Europe!

You might want to spray sandals inside and out with a stain and water protective spray for leather (available at most shoe repair shops, grocery and drug stores). It might be a good idea for any shoe you wear sans socks as well as your leather watchband!

How to eliminate perspiration odors in sandals

Liberally spray the inside of your sandals or shoes with Lysol spray to kill the germs. Follow up with Febreze brand deodorant spray to draw the smell out of the leather and then let them dry overnight.

Another solution is to cut the legs off a pair of pantyhose so that you have two tubes about 12"-18" long. Fill them with any name-brand cat litter that advertises itself as "odor absorbing". The chunkier ones work better than the sand (granular) types, which "leak" through the hose. Tie a knot in the top of each tube after filling. Put them in your sandals and leave for at least 24 hours.

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Bespoke Suit Tailor's Tips on Being Cool in Summer (3)

VI. Smell like Summer – Use lighter scent cologne, such as citrus or lavender based. Keep your cologne in the fridge for a really invigorating cool blast.


Powder (talcum or baby) sprinkled on your groin or armpits can disperse moisture and keep you cooler.


Deodorant and anti-perspirant becomes more important during the summertime!


Be prepared. You’re having summer cocktails at a friends beach house, the sun sets, the ladies are beautiful, the gentlemen are interesting. Sensible guest have brought cotton sweaters and light jackets. Remember to bring that extra layer for chilly mornings or evenings even in summer. And you may have to lend it to that beautiful woman you just met.


Avoid any men’s apparel that adopts a theme like little life preservers, cowboy hats or golf motifs.


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Bespoke Tailor's Tips on Being Cool in Summer (2)

II. Lighten up – Shop for partially lined summer suits or suits and sports jackets with no lining (“unconstructed”)!

III. Stay loose – go for the generous cut to let the air flow.

IV. Starch your dress shirts – they will hold their shape and not cling to your body. If you have an important meeting late in the day bring a fresh shirt and change just before the meeting. Just for looks you should make certain that all your attire (even khaki shorts, linen shirts and chinos) are pressed, clean and presentable! And we do not have to reiterate, NO short sleeves with a tie, do we?

V. Wear a T-shirt – A T-shirt under a dress shirt or open collar sports shirt is a fine summer look and it helps with perspiration problems. A T-shirt absorbs moisture, protects your shirt from perspiration stains, prevents your skin and body hair from showing through a fine dress shirt and feels good against your skin. Unlike an A-shirt (athletic or tank top), the T-shirt has a tasteful image and protects underarm areas.

A 1980 US Army study reported that a T-shirt worn under a shirt on hot days keeps you cooler. The cotton absorbs perspiration, which then evaporates which physicists call a cooling process.

Wear light colors -- Lighter colors are traditional for summer and they help reflect the sun’s rays.

Khaki’s come in a range of shades. Wear your lighter colored ones in the summer, and save the darker pairs for winter.

Hats can prevent sunstroke from overexposure to the sun's rays.

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2010年3月23日星期二

TailorU's Tips on Being Cool in Summer (1)

I. Choose fabrics that breathe.

Cotton, linen and other natural fibers breathe and are good at absorbing moisture. Nylon and polyester are heat traps, although the new microfiber is said to breathe. With its natural ability to breathe, wool is better than poly, especially in tropical weight wool suits.

Broadcloth cotton dress shirts will be cooler than the heavier weave oxford.

This is the season for Seersucker, but is it appropriate for the office? Seersucker suits recall a more leisurely era, of old money Southern gentlemen sipping mint juleps on the veranda of their plantations, not exactly a strong business image.

Likewise, Linen, because of it’s guaranteed-to-wrinkle ability, maybe best for social or after work occasions. You just have to use your good judgment in evaluating your specific business situation.

Khaki colored suits of cotton, poplin or tropical weight wool are acceptable for work and play during the heat of the summer.

For more details about bespoke suit and shirt, please come to TailorU's website.