2010年6月10日星期四

Bespoke Suits and Cute Printed Ties

I was particularly struck by Winston's harangue of men who wear Printed T-shirts. I have some sympathy for his point of view, but it would be hypocritical of me to fully endorse his stance given, and still do, London.



However, it did bring to the surface my own latent hatred for one item of clothing in particular. No, not those jeans which require your arse to be hanging out over the waistband and the belt ratchet around your thighs to stop them meeting your ankles. No, my own personal loathing is for a garment which many men may already have sitting in their wardrobe.



I'm speaking of cutesy printed ties with animals, plants and all manner of childlike crap upon them; the sort frequently offered up by Hermes, Thomas Pink.



I've always thought of a tie as part tool and part expression of personality. The problem I have is that as a tool to building a look I just don't get the aesthetic, even from a distance. As an expression of personality I'm even more perplexed, just what exactly is it you're trying to say: I'm a child at heart, I like hippos, I'm wacky, my wife buys my ties!



Even as an act of rebellion I'm sceptical that it works. If you care not about fashion, style or dress why not simply wear plain black or blue ties. You can't get much simpler. Ultimately such an excuse is a lie given that these ties are for the most part brightly coloured, and you must possess some interest in clothes to able to match with anything.



I have wondered, given the success of Vineyard Vines in particular, whether there was some cultural significance that I was missing.



There is a respectable tradition in the UK of sporting motifs on ties, intimately bound up in British class consciousness. Typically, patterns incorporate stags, foxes, pheasants, fish and horses, all highlighting country pursuits, and natural accessories to tweeds and country clothing. Good examples of these can be found at the excellent hume with their Atkinsons Irish Poplin.



While this latter illustration is an aesthetic I can appreciate, it isn't one I necessarily practice; and I'm willing to accept that to those living beyond the shores of England it may seem as baffling as Vineyard Vines is to me. But fundamentally, I struggle to understand why a grown man would do such a thing to himself.



If you like to learn more details about custom made shirts and suits, please go to TailorU's website.

Bespoke Suits and Cute Printed Ties

I was particularly struck by Winston's harangue of men who wear Printed T-shirts. I have some sympathy for his point of view, but it would be hypocritical of me to fully endorse his stance given, and still do, London.



However, it did bring to the surface my own latent hatred for one item of clothing in particular. No, not those jeans which require your arse to be hanging out over the waistband and the belt ratchet around your thighs to stop them meeting your ankles. No, my own personal loathing is for a garment which many men may already have sitting in their wardrobe.



I'm speaking of cutesy printed ties with animals, plants and all manner of childlike crap upon them; the sort frequently offered up by Hermes, Thomas Pink.



I've always thought of a tie as part tool and part expression of personality. The problem I have is that as a tool to building a look I just don't get the aesthetic, even from a distance. As an expression of personality I'm even more perplexed, just what exactly is it you're trying to say: I'm a child at heart, I like hippos, I'm wacky, my wife buys my ties!



Even as an act of rebellion I'm sceptical that it works. If you care not about fashion, style or dress why not simply wear plain black or blue ties. You can't get much simpler. Ultimately such an excuse is a lie given that these ties are for the most part brightly coloured, and you must possess some interest in clothes to able to match with anything.



I have wondered, given the success of Vineyard Vines in particular, whether there was some cultural significance that I was missing.



There is a respectable tradition in the UK of sporting motifs on ties, intimately bound up in British class consciousness. Typically, patterns incorporate stags, foxes, pheasants, fish and horses, all highlighting country pursuits, and natural accessories to tweeds and country clothing. Good examples of these can be found at the excellent hume with their Atkinsons Irish Poplin.



While this latter illustration is an aesthetic I can appreciate, it isn't one I necessarily practice; and I'm willing to accept that to those living beyond the shores of England it may seem as baffling as Vineyard Vines is to me. But fundamentally, I struggle to understand why a grown man would do such a thing to himself.



If you like to learn more details about custom made shirts and suits, please go to TailorU's website.

Bespoke Suit with Old Hat

I've hired the jacket and trouser but what I looking to buy was a double breasted buff waistcoat.


A wonderful vintage emporium located, just across Putney Bridge, it's renowned for high quality vintage evening dress and formal wear. They also have an unrivalled collection of vintage Savile Row Tweed jackets and suits. I'm a fan of vintage and own just one Savile Row suit. It fits me like no other garment I own, and comes courtesy of Old Hat.

It always amazes me just how many men known of Old Hat, and how many who still don’t. For one thing the shop is beloved by the men who frequent it, and it doesn't attract your average vintage crowd. Many aren't by nature what you'd call thrifters. But there is something about Old Hat which means once you step inside its hard not to find yourself coming back. For most men that first experience starts with morning tails. In fact enter the premises on any Saturday between May and September and you'd find it hard to move for grooms to be, best-men pending and other honoured guest.

But Old Hat is more than just a great place to go to get around a potentially expensive social life. If anything it's a celebration of classic dressing, an age of craft and quality. Supplying everything from stiff collars to riding boots, Old Hat is about the vision and dedication of one man with an extraordinary love of clothes, the legendary David Saxby. Sadly when it came to my double breasted waistcoat Old Hat had already been cleaned out by Ascot goers, but any excuse to visit Old Hat should be indulged.

For more details about bespoke suits and shirts, please go to TailorU.com.

2010年6月6日星期日

Bespoke Suit and Gentlemen's Beach Life

The gentleman exhales with relief “beach life!” He lays himself on the golden sand, glistening from his brief dip in the chilly, turquoise waters, the sound of which he now conceals with a carefully selected playlist, largely populated with Bob Marley favourites. The sun bakes his skin and he smiles, in genuine satisfaction; by the time of his return to a cloudy mother nation, he will be able to crack smiles and admiring glances when wearing his distinctive and punchy tangerine summer shirt. All the appurtenances of a sophisticated hedonist are at his disposal; iPod, award winning literature, chilled caipirinha.

This bourgeois thought does not trouble his sandy head for too long before he remembers that he is lying on one of those feeble, overwashed, crusty room towels that hotels so perversely cherish; small, uncomfortable and barely absorbent, it’s also a rather disturbing off-white which makes it look as though it has been stuck in the pool’s drainage system for the past fortnight. Our gentleman had assumed, like many others, that a private beach and large pool area automatically indicated a supply of towels to rival that of Champneys. Admittedly, a good hotel should provide all linens and towels throughout a stay – one should not have to waste clothing space with lumps of spongy cotton. However, for the gentleman of distinguished taste a decent towel is an essential accessory when ‘swimmy’ and ‘beachy’ frolics are in the offing.

First and foremost, it must be of a sufficient size and quality. Small and fluffless beach towels are heinous. Cotton terrycloth is the only option for a material; stay well away from cheap microfiber towels. Secondly, colour must be considered carefully. Plain white towels, while versatile, are likely to be mistaken as hotel owned and you might have a hard time convincing Fabrizio the pool guy that your own property is mixed up in the mass of soggy suncream n’ sweat soaked cotton that fills a vat of used towels. In fact, anything too ‘plain’ and your towel might be mistaken for an oversized bathmat – pattern is the key to the classic beach towel.

Avoid the vulgarity of advertising your brand allegiance to the helicopters that swirl above; there is no brand display more pathetic than a gigantic name printed across a beach towel. The opportunity of purchasing a towel is an opportunity to express yourself in a way you might be disinclined to with clothing; after all you do not, technically, wear a towel. It is something you lounge on, wipe sunglasses on, cosy up with on the terrace whilst watching the sun set. It belongs on holiday, not at the pub with your drinking mates. Therefore, a little pattern, a little colour, a little design – the sort of thing a gentleman only admits to liking in pillow talk – is perfectly acceptable.

For more details about bespoke suit and shirt, please go to TailorU.